Day 1

What a day in the saddle! Temperatures soared to over 40 degrees by 11AM and my back finally gave in. Over the past month, I had been nursing my lower back as the disk slipped out again and sent little messages to my toes. After 93 kilometres, my feet were numb and I could not get any strength into the ageing legs.

Norm had his woes also with cramp affecting his left thigh but he was able to ride for about 140 of the 180 kilometres before the heat took its toll.

The day started at 5.45 with Ken and Samean joining us on the first stage of the ride to our breakfast break in Kralanh, some 58 kilometres from Siem Reap. As we left the hotels of Siem Reap behind us, the headwind hit us, not unexpectedly as I had experienced this on the many training rides I had taken along this route.

Norm and I looked resplendent in the grey and pink outfits supplied for our ride by Total Rush Specialized Bike Shop in Melbourne. Total Rush also supplied our two bicycles which are excellent machines but it was a mistake on my part to jump onto a new machine as I found the seat and configuration difficult to adjust to after the past three years of peddling on my former bike.

The day’s ride from Siem Reap to Battambang is no longer a viable option at this time of the year; it is simply asking too much in the heat. Like last year, the wet season has waned.  After flooding rains several weeks ago, the heat and humidity have returned. It is hotter than in the hot season as the humidity builds and builds towards the inevitable downpour. When that will occur is anyone’s guess as the sky turns black with the promise of rain but the clouds move on as the blue sky returns. In future, this leg of the ride would have to be ridden over two days or the ride would have to be held in December or January when the weather is cooler.

Another aspect to consider on this leg of the ride is the total lack of shade along the road. The green rice fields that spread as far as the eye can see are a photographer’s delight but the evaporating water adds to the difficulties for the traffic along the road, that is unless you are in an air conditioned car. For the motorbikes, tractors, bicycles, pedestrians, mad dogs and Englishmen, it is hell. For the water buffalo, the pools of water offer relief but I would not venture into those waters.

Tomorrow is another day. It is shorter and, hopefully, my back and Norm’s thigh will have recovered sufficiently for us to have a more pleasant journey.

Day 2

My back had improved so much that there was little pain left which meant that my troublesome disk was not the cause of the injury. I reasoned that the hard seat on the bike had produced the lower back pain, a warning for all would-be riders. The new bike was fine but the granite-like seat had not only left its mark on my posterior but also in the lower back. If you have a new bike, break the seat in or use the seat from your old bike.

Rest and stretching exercises had removed the tension from the lower back and hamstrings and I was ready for the day’s ride. Norm was sunburned and a little sore in his left thigh but we were ready for the day’s challenge.

It was the end of the three day Pchum Benh holiday, a time for being with family and visiting the pagoda to pray for the spirits of the departed and to offer gifts to help the spirits on their journey to the next life. As is common with every Pchum Benh, the roads were packed with buses, taxis, private cars, motorbikes and more buses. In fact, every form of transportation is utilized to get people back to their homes. And the people are happy and somewhat hung over after three days of celebrating.

It was hot, damn hot with the temperature rising to 42 degrees by 11AM, a stinker. Surprisingly, I was not sweating as much as the previous day when my body just couldn’t cope with the extreme heat. With each kilometer, I was getting stronger. Norm, super fit individual that he is, coped with everything, from the heat to a minor thigh strain to the long hard ride in the saddle.

Day 3

A partially overcast sky and a beautiful red sunrise greeted us as we left Pursat and headed towards Kampong Chhnang, a journey of some 90 kilometres. My arms were still red from yesterday’s ride although the sting was gone from sunburn. Norm was turning a darker shade of brown from his two days in the Cambodian sun.

The humidity was very high but the thin cloud cover shielded us from the harsh burning rays; the temperature reaching 35 degrees by mid morning rather that the 42 degrees of yesterday. The wind from the first two days was gone and on the horizon the clouds were gathering.

As usual, we rode nonstop for the first two hours, determined to get as many kilometres covered in the morning’s cooler conditions. A particularly strong coffee was consumed at the first stop, the sort of coffee typical of the countries of this region, black and in a tall glass with the unmistakable flavor that tells you it was made from syrup and not fresh beans.

We were certainly the show as we sat sweating in front of the locals as they ate their breakfast and then went about their business of the morning.

Unlike yesterday when my body was in control of itself, the sweating of Day One had returned. I knew that I would start to tire before reaching Kampong Chhnang unless I kept the fluids up without over hydrating which, I think, contributed to my weakened condition on the first leg.

Today, we decided to stop each hour after the initial breakfast stop but after having two hourly stops, we determined to make half hourly stops to rehydrate in the oppressive conditions, a move which assisted my stamina no end.

Today, the scenery had far more trees and variety than the previous two days; many trees lining the road but mostly not tall enough to give shade. The frequency of the flying buses was far less than yesterday when the Khmers were returning to their homes from visiting their families for the Pchum Benh holiday. Things appeared to have returned to normal for most of the population.

Both Norm and I were now hurting around the rear end as the rock hard seats began to take their toll. Some form of therapy would be required if our derrieres were to last the journey.

I am pleased to say that the ride was uneventful, thank goodness. The distance was as calculated and we arrived without incident at our hotel by 11AM.

Kampong Chhnang is an interesting town, nestled by the mountain and with a real character to it. Here is the centre for terra cotta pottery, everything from ornamental vases to egg poachers and soup tureens.  Pity we were too tired to snap up a few bargains.

Fried chicken, sweet potato chips and hamburgers for the Westerners and sizzling hot chilli laden eel for Sokhoeun. I have never seen Sokhoeun sweat like he did while eating the eel but he ate it all despite complaining about the strength of the chilli.

The television and rest afforded us by the short day were just what our weary bodies needed. However, the telltale sign of stress in my body was developing, that facial look that seemed as if my eyes had been pushed too far into their sockets.

I was able to get a wonderful night’s sleep assisted by the best oil massage I have ever had.

Day 4

The forecast last night was for rain in Phnom Penh. The rain stayed away as we completed Day 4 of our ride. We could have used a cooling storm or two as the temperature rose rapidly to 40 degrees again after the early morning cloud evaporated.

Just out of Kampong Chhnang we got our heart starter with the only real incline so far. A slight breeze was at our backs and this assisted our exit from the town.

This part of National road 5 is quite good but it deteriorated the closer we got to Phnom Penh.

Everything was going well until an errant wasp decided to take exception to my presence and left its mark just below my right ear. I was lucky even though the stinger was left embedded in my skin. When the car caught up to us, Sokhoeun removed the offending wasp extremity and, apart from some itchiness and later soreness, I was none the worse for my altercation with the insect.

We stopped for breakfast after only 35 kilometres and had some more of the wretched coffee essence to pep us up.

The ancient capital of Oudong was our next stop, only ten or twelve kilometres further along. Both Norm and I were showing signs of tiring. Two further stops were needed, the second of these being the Tela gasoline station some thirteen clicks from Phnom Penh where we had ice-creams to prepare us for the ride into the heat and pollution of the nation’s capital.

I had done this ride in 2006 and I knew what it would be like and it was even worse because of the increased volume of traffic to that of three years ago. Thankfully, I can report that we were able to negotiate the errant cars, motorbikes and other vehicular traffic that clogged Monivong and then Kampuchea Krom as we made our way to our overnight hotel.

Both of us needed to rest after a lunch of bread, salad, cakes, coffee and o.j. My eyes were further recessed into my skull and I was wondering if I would make the Day 5 destination of Kampot without the assistance of the backup vehicle.

Day 5

An early start was essential to today as the route took us past the airport and the traffic builds up very quickly in that part of the city. We were away as usual by 6AM and negotiating the roads was easy, even the roundabout just past the airport was not a problem.

However, from that roundabout onwards, the road is bad, to say the least. The thin strip of bitumen is riddled with potholes which, as we rode along, were full of water. Beware, of puddles as you don’t know how deep the hole is. So, to navigate around the puddles placed increased pressure on the two of us.

Now, when I had navigated the course originally, the first 45 kilometres was full of potholes and the rest of the journey was along a more or less continuous strip of bitumen, not very wide but okay. However, the road was now under construction…for at least 70 kiolmetres. Yes, 70 kilometres…of red dust.

By the time we reached the road construction, it was mid morning and the temperature had soared to 39 degrees. I was struggling and falling behind Norm who I insisted should be going at his own speed, not mine.

The support vehicle was behind us but not in sight. This was not unusual because photo stops for them were common. But a puncture to the support vehicle added to the woes of the day. Norm and I stopped for our break to allow the car tyre to be changed. Luckily for us, a Tela gasoline station was in the next town and that afforded us the luxury of ice-creams.

When the car reached us, we took off in the heat, leaving them to have the tyre repaired and put back on the vehicle.

Then came the rain. The black clouds were assembling in front of us, coming in from the sea and the wind was increasing. And then, down it came. So too did the temperature. Within half an hour, the thermometer on my bike computer was showing 24 degrees and the previously dusty road was reduced to thin, orange mud that splattered up into our eyes and covered our bodies.

I was invigorated. The drop in temperature was just what the doctor ordered and I was able to complete the ride whereas before the rain, I was doubting whether I would survive.

The day’s ride was longer than anticipated being 150 kilometres or some 18 more than I had thought it would be.

It was still raining as we arrived in Kampot and rode down the main drag to the Moliden, our overnight abode. The bed was fantastic, a perfect night’s sleep in preparation for the grueling final day. To make it even better, we had a delicious meal at the Jasmine Restaurant.

Day 6

The rain had continued for much of the night and there was still a light drizzle as we left Kampot. The climb into the wind past mountains shrouded in cloud sapped our strength and after an hour’s ride, we welcomed a break, only twenty kilometres from our departure point. Again, we had the strong, black syrupy coffee that is common to the rural towns of Cambodia.

The drizzling rain persisted until we joined National Road 4 after 50 kilometres riding from Kampot. We still had 52 clicks to go.

My legs and back were killing me, almost no power being evident. After the first of the hills into Sihanoukville, and with 20 kilometres still to travel, I stopped to clear mud from the computer so that it would continue to record our travel. My legs were like metal pipes, the muscles were refusing to move.

By now, Norm was well ahead of me and I decided that the gap was getting too big and I should throw in the towel and ride the rest of the way in the car.

I sat in the back of the ute watching Norm tackle the remaining hills. No, I couldn’t end my rides like this.

With ten kilometres to go, I rejoined the ride completing the final two or three hills without a problem. The new bike was far better than my old one when tackling the climbs but it took time to become accustomed to the gearing. After that, there were no problems. I could probably have survived the hills but I am not quite sure.

I was glad that it was over and realized it was time to retire from riding to concentrate on organizing the event for younger people from now on. No regrets because it is time. I had two beers to celebrate.

Norm was fantastic, a real pro as you would expect given his history of iron man competitions and multi event experience. He will be back in Cambodia next year riding.

Our overnight stay was at the Orchidee Hotel with T-bones and fries being consumed for lunch.

Pim from Pim’s Restaurant provided a wonderful dinner, paid for by Andre from Angelo’s Taverna. A US$250 donation from Andre made the meal even more delicious. Many thanks for their extreme generosity and fine food and drink – recommended places to eat and drink when in Sihanoukville.

Sokhoeun was his normal hardworking self, driving the support vehicle and organizing the hotels, food and drink. Belinda worked her fingers to the bone taking photographs from the support vehicle and handing out the goodies along the way, especially the cold towels.

Big thanks to:

Total Rush Specialized Bike Shop (great bicycles)

Singapore Airlines (for allocating extra baggage allowance for the bicycles)

This report was written by Les Stott.